~Surf’s Up~Dude!~

Recently I had the most fun experience doing something that I never would have considered possible. I went Surfing!  There is a program out of California that goes around to different coastal cities in the summer and offers a day of adaptive surfing for physically disabled people. The founder Jesse, was about to become a pro surfer when he had his accident. He wiped out while surfing and ended up with a spinal cord injury.  After a long recovery and therapy he decided he wanted to surf again, so he started “Life Rolls On.”

The day was really special. We stayed overnight at a hotel and got up at 6am to get ready. We arrived early and all the volunteers were there. There were about seven teams each with their own colors.  I was with the blue team. There were tons of volunteers, including my trainer “M.”  They helped me on the board and paddled me out while lining  up in the ocean.

I felt like I was in California.  They take you out beyond where the waves break. Then at the right wave ~ you’re off! ~ gliding in between two rows of volunteers.

It was the greatest feeling! I did wipe out a few times but was rescued by my team! I had a mouthful of salt water ~ but survived and went right back on the board. At the end of the surf, the team came out of the ocean and took a photo with us.

The other fun thing about the day was that my friend Shannon was there with us and also got to surf for the first time. 

                        Bree & Shannon

I have always loved the waves and water, oceans, pools, and swimming. This was so exhilarating and freeing. When I’m swimming or walking in a pool without help from anyone, I feel free. This was the same. Most of the other surfers I saw looked like they felt the same. I’m grateful to Jesse for starting this organization. His accident was sad ~ but he has created something so great because of it. I can’t wait to try this again!  Hang Ten!

7 thoughts on “~Surf’s Up~Dude!~

  1. Briana!!! I’m so excited for you that you loved this experience—it sounds incredible! You’ve always been amazing in the water and athletic so this is right up your alley! You clearly KILLED IT out there!! I loved your writing it really explained the group and what it’s meant to do and more people should definitely be aware of it! Amazing job! Can’t wait for the next one!! ❤

  2. DEAR BREE,
    YOU ARE TRULY BRAVE IN AND OUT OF THE WATER! YOUR AMAZING! WOW I TRYED THAT ONCE AS WELL BUT COULDN’T STAND UP! LOVE YOUR PICTURES AND YOU TO!

    I WOULD LOVE TO GET TOGETHER WITH YOU! I’M SO HAPPY YOU ENJOYED A WONDERFUL TRIP! PLEASE GIVE MY REGARDS TO YOUR PARENTS!

    LOVE, MIMI

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