Archive | September 2019

~Surf’s Up~Dude!~

Recently I had the most fun experience doing something that I never would have considered possible. I went Surfing!  There is a program out of California that goes around to different coastal cities in the summer and offers a day of adaptive surfing for physically disabled people. The founder Jesse, was about to become a pro surfer when he had his accident. He wiped out while surfing and ended up with a spinal cord injury.  After a long recovery and therapy he decided he wanted to surf again, so he started “Life Rolls On.”

The day was really special. We stayed overnight at a hotel and got up at 6am to get ready. We arrived early and all the volunteers were there. There were about seven teams each with their own colors.  I was with the blue team. There were tons of volunteers, including my trainer “M.”  They helped me on the board and paddled me out while lining  up in the ocean.

I felt like I was in California.  They take you out beyond where the waves break. Then at the right wave ~ you’re off! ~ gliding in between two rows of volunteers.

It was the greatest feeling! I did wipe out a few times but was rescued by my team! I had a mouthful of salt water ~ but survived and went right back on the board. At the end of the surf, the team came out of the ocean and took a photo with us.

The other fun thing about the day was that my friend Shannon was there with us and also got to surf for the first time. 

                        Bree & Shannon

I have always loved the waves and water, oceans, pools, and swimming. This was so exhilarating and freeing. When I’m swimming or walking in a pool without help from anyone, I feel free. This was the same. Most of the other surfers I saw looked like they felt the same. I’m grateful to Jesse for starting this organization. His accident was sad ~ but he has created something so great because of it. I can’t wait to try this again!  Hang Ten!